Category Archives: Chiang Mai

Travelling with a Pet on Thai Airways

Considering travel with Thai Airways?

Tam showing Jamie some love

To offer a little background, my wife and I lived in Thailand for over 3 years and 2 of that we spent involved with a local dog rescue that is trying to help deal with the street dog population in Thailand. The shelter also provides a safe environment for sick/injured dogs that have been brought in from the street. During our involvement we became very attached to a dog named Tam.

For those that are familiar with Chiang Mai, Tam was rescued from a drain in the moat by the Thai Military, along with her litter of puppies in 2014. You can see the story here All of her puppies were quickly adopted, however Tam remained at the shelter. Care for Dogs is a wonderful organization, doing great things for Chiang Mai and surrounding communities, but a shelter is no place for a dog to spend years of their life in. In March of 2016 my wife and I adopted Tam and brought her home and she has been a wonderful addition to our lives since then. You can read a brief snippet about Tam’s adoption here

The day we brought Tam home.

For a myriad of reasons, we decided that Thailand was not the place for us long term and we began researching what was required to bring Tam with us to Europe. While there are many pet relocation companies, we discovered that they charge outrageous prices to relocate pets (we’ve received quotes from $2,000 up to $7,000 USD) and transporting Tam as cargo would include several days of travel and kennel boarding for her. As the street dogs in Thailand are generally not treated very well, Tam can be temperamental with strangers. Being able to bring her with us on our flight(s) as excess baggage (AVIH) was absolutely critical in our decision-making process.

While the requirements vary slightly from the US and Europe, the process is not terribly complicated (microchip, updated rabies vaccination and current titer test, health check, and export license). In July, we started researching the various airline carrier policies to see who offered the ability to travel with a dog as excess baggage (AVIH). After speaking with the booking agent at the Thai Airways Corporate Offices in Chiang Mai, we decided to make our travel arrangements with them. One of the reasons we chose Thai Airways is that our connecting flight in Frankfurt was thru Lufthansa who also allows for dogs to be transported as excess baggage. Lufthansa’s policy on transporting dogs as excess baggage (AVIH) only requires that the crate for a large dog be within specific dimensions (which Tam’s crate was).   Frankfurt airport handles millions of animals a year and our connecting flight with Lufthansa would take us directly to Faro, Portugal. This was the most direct route (24 hours travel time) and would minimize the stress to Tam. The booking agent at the Thai Airways Corporate offices told us that a dog up to 40kg. (animal and crate) would be $750 USD to transport her as excess baggage to Europe (IATA TC2 and TC3 regions). The agent’s quote was consistent with the Thai Airways Pet Travel policy found here As it was also much cheaper to fly her as excess baggage than to use a pet relocation service, it was a win-win for all of us.

Tam and I at the shelter.

Our initial reservation was completed via the Thai Airways website, at the end of July. We were scheduled to depart Chiang Mai on the evening of Christmas day and would arrive in Portugal the following day. The day after we booked our flights, we returned to the Thai Airways offices to provide them with Tam’s microchip number. The booking agent updated our reservation and provided us with a printed confirmation of our flights. Shortly thereafter we noticed the following entry on our booking confirmation:


* SSR = Special Service Request, AVIH = Animal in Hold

As requested by the agent, we returned at the beginning of December to confirm Tam’s reservation on our flight. In light of the entry on our booking confirmation noted above, we confirmed with the agent (once again) that we would have no issues including Tam as excess baggage on our flights. To avoid any confusion when we checked in for our flights, we asked that the SSR AVIH on our booking confirmation be updated to reflect the 40kg weight limit. The booking agent at the corporate offices called the Thai Airways offices in Bangkok and Lufthansa Airlines to confirm, once again, that we could in fact fly with Tam if she was under 40kg. After confirming with both, the booking agent updated the SSR on our booking confirmation to reflect the 40kg weight for each leg of our travels. With our reservation confirmation updated, we felt confident that we would be able to take Tam without any issues. All of the travel documents would be verified in Chiang Mai, Tam would be checked through at Bangkok and we would retrieve her in Frankfurt for medical examination and entry to the EU. Lufthansa would have put her on our connecting flight to Faro as excess baggage.

During the next couple of weeks, we completed the remaining steps (health certificate and export license) to take Tam with us to Portugal. We’d been preparing Tam for months to get her to feel safe in her crate, how to drink from the water dispenser, and walked her vigorously to ensure her weight (including crate and accessories) was below 40kg. We invested a lot of time, money and especially energy in this process. We knew this would be a stressful journey for her (us too) and we tried to do everything we could to minimize the stress as much as we possibly could.

Headed to Thai Airways
Getting ready to leave for the airport.

We arrived at Chiang Mai International Airport on Christmas Day with Tam, and all of our belongings approximately 2 ½ hours before our flight. We provided the ticketing agent with the printed reservation confirmation (including all of the updates) that had been provided to us by the booking agent at the Corporate Offices. When we checked in, we had other issues regarding our baggage and associated fees but that is secondary to what followed. We loaded Tam (crate and all) onto the luggage scale and the total weight was 39.8 kg. We knew that her weight would be close to 40kg so you can imagine how relieved we were when we saw that she was under the limit. Shortly thereafter, our excitement was cut short when the ticketing agent told us that Tam could not travel with us on our flight because she was over 32kg.

There we stood at the Thai Airways counter on Christmas day, after months of preparation, checking and double-checking that we had complied with all of the travel and export requirements, ensuring that the 40kg. weight limit was allowed AND DOCUMENTED on our booking confirmation, in total disbelief that we were being told that we would not be allowed to take Tam with us.

We spent 2 hours at the ticketing counter dealing with an agent who seemed entirely indifferent about the circumstances. The only explanation that she was able to provide was “Bangkok not accept”. We had to ask for a supervisor and eventually the highest person in charge for Thai Airways at the airport. After speaking with the Supervisor and being told once again that Tam could not fly with us, the Duty Manager eventually came down and told us that the booking agent in the Corporate Offices should not have made the reservation for Tam and that Tam would not be able to travel with us (regardless of what was on the Thai Airways website or the printed booking confirmation).

With 30 minutes to our departure, our friend from the shelter, told us he would take care of Tam until we could make alternative arrangements. With no time to say goodbye, we headed for the gate in tears, without our girl. To say that this experience with Thai Airways ruined our Christmas and the beginning of our new journey is putting it lightly. When we arrived in Frankfurt and checked in with Lufthansa, the ticketing agent was confused because our booking confirmation indicated that we would be arriving with a dog, yet there we were, without Tam. We were still in disbelief about the whole experience with Thai Airways. To confirm that there wasn’t an issue with Lufthansa we inquired with the ticketing agent about weight / size limits and she told us that the issue was not with Lufthansa Airlines and they would have put Tam on our flight without any issues.

We received an email survey from Thai Airways after our trip was complete, but it certainly was not enough for us to convey our dissatisfaction with the situation. After some research on the Internet I managed to locate the email address for several Directors, including the Director of Customer Relations & Services Quality Department. On 2 January, I directed a lengthy email to three Directors at Thai Airways describing our experience. I also included details about Tam’s rescue as well as our involvement at the dog shelter in Chiang Mai. Several days later I received an email confirmation from Thai Airways Customer Relations Department that they were forwarded my email by the Director of Customer Relations & Services Quality Department and that they would be conducting an investigation into our situation.

On 10 January, I sent a follow-up email to the same Directors and the Customer Relations Department inquiring about our case. On 12 January I received an email from the Chief of the Customer Relations Service Department regarding the investigation that they completed on our case. In the Chief’s response, she acknowledges that Thai Airways Staff at Chiang Mai International Airport was in the wrong and should have accepted Tam on our flight, but she indicates that because we were given additional baggage allowance (as a gesture of goodwill) that there was nothing further Thai Airways would do for us.

My last email to Thai Airways was sent on Friday, 12 January and was directed to the Customer Relations Department, the Chief, (2) Directors and (2) Vice Presidents. In it I expressed that while we appreciated the gesture, including the additional bags was a soft cost to Thai Airways and that I would have gladly left behind our excess bags in exchange for Tam. I also highlighted that bringing Tam on our flight as excess baggage was the most critical part of our decision in selecting Thai Airways. As of Thursday, 18 January, I have not had a response from anyone at Thai Airways, nothing, zero, zip, zilch, nada.

Sleeping beauty

Everything in our bags could be replaced, but there is a void in our lives right now because Tam is not with us. The part that really chaps my ass is that this wasn’t a failure of just a single ticketing agent at Thai Airways, this was also a failure of the Supervisor, the Duty Manager, and whomever the ticketing agent spoke to in Bangkok. Quite honestly, I think the Supervisor and the Duty Manager were more concerned with not “losing face” than they were with trying to properly address our issue. Any Manager with a modicum of customer relations skills (especially for an organization with 20,000 employees world-wide)  would make absolutely sure that when they have 2 customers standing at their counter, in tears, that they were 100% correct about their policies and procedures. That just wasn’t the case with Thai Airways management team.

3 weeks after our flights and several emails later it’s clear to me that Thai Airways, is not interested in doing what is right, they are only interested in the bottom line. I have not written this just to give caution to anyone considering traveling with a pet on Thai Airways, but to highlight that if you have any issues during your travels with Thai Airways, don’t expect much in the way of customer service, you can forget about the “service” or “relations” part. Don’t be fooled by the Thai Smile, it’s an empty marketing gimmick. (As of 22 January, Thai Airways has not responded to my email on 12 January)

If you know someone traveling to or from Thailand, especially anyone traveling with a pet, please feel free to share this with them. If I can help someone else avoid this kind of travel debacle (and heartache), then it’s worth the time to have written this.


Care for Dogs

For the last 6 – 8 weeks we’ve been volunteering at a local dog rescue / shelter called Care for Dogs. Most of the 180 dogs here at the shelter are soi dogs that have been injured in some form, (usually accidental but often from neglect or outright abuse) including quite a few that have been rescued from the dog meat trade (yes the dog meat trade but that’s a different topic entirely).

Care for Dogs operates primarily from the blood, sweat and tears and the tireless efforts of a number of (mostly) volunteers dedicated to helping our four legged friends receive medical care AND find a new home. Care for Dogs is also committed to conducting a regular number of sterilizations each month to address the dog overpopulation issue here in Thailand.

If you come for a stay, you can expect to join us for a day of dog walking … so be sure to bring your walking shoes. Of course there are other ways you can help …. and yep that means cash. Providing food, shelter and medical care for 180 plus dogs is not cheap and Care for Dogs relies entirely on donations from people like you and I. Thailand is not exactly a thriving economic center and without the exposure to foreigners willing to donate to the shelter, I’m afraid that the center would not survive. We recently picked up a couple of leashes, collars and grooming supplies and it all cost about the same as they would in the US so even if someone wanted to send a “care package” in lieu of cash it would be put to good use.

If you are really feeling especially gratuitous you can sponsor a dog. Here’s just a few of the dogs we walk …

This is Fritz and Jones. Fritz is blind in both eyes but as you can see he’s a healthy boy. Unfortunately, he’s a bit too heavy to be carried out of the enclosure by most of the volunteers so he doesn’t get walked as much as he should. He’s a gentle boy who loves being brushed and cuddled with. Jones is a big boy too and he’s definitely the top dog in his little corner of the yard but his bark is much bigger than his bite.  Frankly, I think he’d spend all day licking the sweat off if I allowed him to.

This is Penny (left) and Tam (right). Tam and 3 of Penny’s offspring are segregated from the main yard because they don’t play well with other dogs. Penny has a cage all to herself because, well, her junk brings all the boys to the yard. Tam has become one of my wife’s favorites to walk and if we find ourselves in a position to foster / adopt, Tam will definitely come with us. Surprisingly (given her reputation), Penny has been a joy to walk, she doesn’t pull, listens quite well, and she even takes treats like a lady.

These 2 beautiful sisters were recently “found” wandering the parking lot at the local mall (coincidentally there was an adoption event going on the same day). This is the first I have seen of German Shepherds in Thailand so my guess is that they were brought in by foreigners, then ditched for whatever reason. Never the less, these 2 girls can’t be more than 2 or 3 years old and they are still quite playful. I don’t think that they have been walked on leash much and they tend to weave but I think that will be easy to overcome with a little persistence. We encountered a few soi dogs while we were walking the other day and they definitely got agitated but never got too aggressive. These 2 girls are not soi dogs and don’t belong in a shelter and I’d be heartbroken if they were broken up so I am hoping they find a good home together soon.
Rick the prick, Lulu the lap dog, and my bud Fritzi. Lulu is a very jealous dog but when she is getting attention she is all love. Rick is a social young male that loves attention but tends to bark at the other dogs when they get in the way of his human time.

Here’s just a few more that need YOUR SUPPORT.

To learn more, please visit the Care for Dogs website at and be sure to add them on Facebook.

Care for Dogs

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Care for Dogs 18.717037, 98.908242

Doi Inthanon

We finally made the ride up to Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s tallest mountain at 2,535 m (just over 8,000′) . This was by far the longest ride we’ve done on the motorbike (as evidenced by the nasty sunburns we are both dealing with at the moment) at just over 2 hours in each direction (a bit more than 100km). We managed to stop and take a couple breaks on the way up to Doi Inthanon but weren’t so fortunate on the ride home (more on that in a minute). Admission for farangs is 300 THB per person and 20 THB for a motorbike, definitely one of the more expensive sites in Thailand but well worth it.

As we experienced on the way up to Doi Suthep, the temperatures start dropping as the elevation increases and Doi Inthanon is no exception. The weather at the top couldn’t have been more perfect in my opinion, although my head got a little toasty just from walking around the gardens. The temperature difference is so noticeable it felt like we were riding into an oven as we descended the mountain back in to the valley. We were also very fortunate that there was little traffic headed up or down the mountain (which seemed incredibly odd for a weekend).

I believe there’s 6 or 7 total waterfalls to see along the road up to Doi Inthanon and we had originally planned to see 1 or 2 on the way up and several on the way down but we had some mechanical issues with the rear brakes which distracted us from pretty much everything else at the time (not to mention the rain that was headed right toward us). Luckily we stopped at this waterfall on the way up and managed to take a few pictures and cool off in the mist.

It’s a short but steep and windy road down but our 125cc made it up without any issues. There’s also a café and restrooms for visitors.

We intended on stopping at a number of temples we saw along the side of the road on the way home, however that ominous rain cloud, that is visible in a few of the pictures, chased us home with our tail between our legs. Fortunately, we managed to stop at Wat Namtok Mae Klang just before getting to the first checkpoint headed into Doi Inthanon National Park (the last 3 pictures in this group are from a different temple that we stopped at briefly).

Just having fun with panoramic pictures.

This day trip was definitely a highlight for me and in spite of the crazy winds, rain and mechanical issues with our scooter, I’d do it all over again. It would have been nice to make a couple extra stops along the way home but I left my weather modification device in the US …… haha (kinda).

3 down, 297 to go

It was a beautiful day and we haven’t done much exploring of the temples in Chiang Mai since we’ve been back …. no better time than the present.

It’s amazing that some of these buildings are still standing. I wish I could go way back in time a few hundred years to see what life was like in this area.

Wat Lok Molee

Wat Chiang Yuen

Wat Chedi Luang Worawihan

Loi Krathong

Experiencing Loi Krathong and Yi Peng in Chiang Mai for the first time was something to behold. While I am sure that pilots flying in and out of the Chiang Mai airport weren’t so keen on it, we sure enjoyed watching the progression of lanterns floating in the night sky in the days leading up the full moon. The night of Loi Krathong was a bit surreal. If I had to compare it to something in the United States, it was a bit like the 4th of July combined with the atmosphere of New Years Eve. We, along with thousands of other tourists and locals alike, spent the evening on the east side of the moat near Tha Phae Gate. If this area wasn’t the center piece to the whole event, I can’t imagine what was.

The east side gates of the moat
The east side gates of the moat

Paper Lanterns Fireworks and Lanterns

The sky was filled 360 degrees with lanterns.
The sky was filled 360 degrees with lanterns.
These could be purchased for 30 baht.
These could be purchased for 30 baht.

Considering how many floats and lanterns were let go, we were blown away at how quickly the streets and surrounding area were cleaned up the following day. What the area lacks in municipal services was sure made up for with a collective cleaning effort.

Day Trip

A Royal Project – prior opium fields turned into organic farms to provide a means of sustainable income for the local hill tribe people. Overnight camping and vegetarian meals are also available

We found this temple after making a wrong turn. Not a single person was around.

Had lunch at this little resort / restaurant tucked away on the side of the mountain. I was waiting for King Kong to come out of the jungle at any moment.

The view from our table at lunch.
The view from our table at lunch.

Wat Phra That – Doi Suthep

Unfortunately the skies were overcast the day we visited. Personally, I think the views of Chiang Mai below would be spectacular and, in my opinion, it would be worth waiting for a clear day. Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is definitely a must see for anyone visiting the Northern Thailand area. I think just about every Songthaew in Chiang Mai has an advertisement for rides up Doi Suthep and you can probably get a ride much cheaper than what we paid but we had a Songthaew available at our discretion. I believe we paid 1,500 THB for the ride up to the temple (‘Wat’ in Thai) and an additional 300 THB to continue further up the mountain to the Royal Garden. (NOTE: If you are sensitive to curvy, mountainous roads, I’d suggest hiring a cab).

Wat Phra That - Doi Suthep

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Wat Phra That - Doi Suthep 18.804896, 98.921696